Indigenous Cholas from Bolivia’s Rugged Highlands Take the Runway by Storm

 In the bustling markets, vast farms, and lively parties of Viacha, a town located southeast of Bolivia’s capital, it’s common to see women wearing bowler hats, layered skirts, and fringed shawls.

However, what is less common is the spotlight shining on these traditional outfits, worn by the “Cholas,” Indigenous women from the highland Altiplano.

On a recent Friday evening, just 22 kilometers (13 miles) from Bolivia's capital of La Paz - at an altitude of over 12,000 feet (3,650 meters) — the main square of Viacha transformed into a runway. Over 12,000 people gathered in awe as teenage boys and proud mothers watched the amateur models, mostly students aged 15-25, strut down the catwalk to the unexpected beats of early 2000s American pop music. Street vendors sold hot dogs and empanadas, while supporters cheered in both Spanish and the Indigenous Aymaran language.

The young models, adorned in glittering shoes and brightly colored skirts known as “polleras,” twirled and posed, tipping their hats and casting sultry glances at the crowd.

“Years ago, people would associate these skirts with the fields and look down on us as rural peasants,” said 42-year-old Rogelia Canaviri, who beamed as she watched her daughter, Carolina, walk down the runway. Carolina wore dangling pearl earrings, and the sequins on her red layered skirt shimmered under the lights.

“It’s something I’m proud of, to see my daughter and her friends enjoy what I’ve worn for work my whole life,” said Canaviri, pointing to her woolen shawl, velvet hat, and beige pollera — the same outfit she still wears to milk her cows and sell cheese at local markets.

Generations ago, the Aymara people endured waves of conquest and dispossession, first by the Inca and later by the Spanish, who forced Indigenous communities to abandon their traditional dress in favor of the popular styles of Seville. The iconic bowler hat, introduced by British railway workers in the 1920s, has since become a key element of the outfit.

In Bolivia’s more affluent and predominantly white population, the term "Chola" — and its diminutive, “Cholita” — was historically used as a derogatory term. But over the years, that stigma has faded, with Indigenous Aymara people reclaiming the word and younger generations rediscovering the beauty of their mothers’ and grandmothers’ vibrant attire.

“I think the ‘Cholita’ look is now very exciting and interesting in today’s context,” said 21-year-old Brittany Cantuta Valeria, a first-time model, with her hat brimmed upward and cheeks flushed.

“We are now respected for what we represent, so I wear this to have fun, to show off, to go to parties and dances. It’s no longer just about working the fields,” she added.

Most of the girls walking the runway at the Viacha show, organized by the local municipality, grew up during the presidency of Evo Morales, Bolivia’s first Indigenous president. Morales promoted Indigenous culture, languages, and arts during his tenure from 2006-2019. His presidency played a key role in elevating the cultural significance of the Chola identity and inspired more fashion shows and beauty contests showcasing Bolivia’s native highland culture.

Despite this growing trend, fashion events had been largely centered in La Paz. Before this show, Viacha, like most towns in the mountain-rimmed Altiplano, had never hosted a runway event.

“I was really nervous, but I realized this is the first time for all of us,” said 15-year-old Tomasa Ramirez. “I feel so pretty. Now I know it’s my dream to be a Cholita model.”

With Bolivia’s ongoing economic crisis affecting many families, several girls admitted that walking in the show came at a cost. The intricate velvet hats, vicuña wool shawls with silk fringes, and high-end polleras can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars. Many participants couldn’t afford the most expensive items for the show.

“This year, I couldn’t have real ones,” said 16-year-old Julieta Mamani, pointing to her gold-colored earrings. “I hope things will be different next year.”

As she watched her 24-year-old daughter pose for selfies in her extravagant skirt, Rogelia Canaviri shared another wish.