For the past two decades, Spanish architect-turned-fashion designer Diego Del Valle Cortizas—founder of the renowned fashion house Chula—has been cherished by the Vietnamese people for his designs, which are deeply imbued with Vietnamese character. His recent passing following a stroke has shocked and saddened his family, friends, and many in Vietnam’s fashion community. To pay tribute to this great friend of Vietnam, we look back at how the Spanish designer developed his love for the country and translated it into his art.
During a trip to Vietnam in 2003, Diego was immediately captivated by local culture, particularly the textiles of the highlanders. A year later, he and his wife moved to Vietnam and founded the Chula fashion house. From then on, he became known as Diego Chula.
Chula’s designs are instantly recognizable for their architectural structure and unique color combinations. Each piece reflects traditional Vietnamese values while conveying messages of optimism, peace, and sharing. Diego was passionate about using silk and brocade for the traditional *áo dài*, Western dresses, and other garments.
Since 2010, Chula’s collections were regularly featured at Vietnam Fashion Week, making Diego the foreign designer with the most shows at this annual event. His assistant, Coco, recalled that he was a workaholic who never stopped creating.
“There were times when he suddenly came up with a new idea while driving. He would pull over and start designing immediately. Sometimes a beautiful natural scene he happened to see would spark a new design,” she said.
Coco added that Diego devoted much time to studying Vietnam’s culture. “His love and understanding of Vietnam were so great that anything related to the country became a source of energy and inspiration for his designs.”
Diego once shared his dream of bringing Chula to the world as a “Made in Vietnam” brand. His affection for Vietnam is visible in the smallest details of each piece: a tiny window, a birdcage, or autumn leaves.
Vietnamese identity permeates every aspect of Diego’s creative output—not only his fashion and architecture but also his songs, poems, and paintings. In his song “Book Me a Ride,” he sings of Hanoi’s landmarks: the Red River, sidewalk *bún ch?*, iced lemon tea, and xe ôm (scooter taxis). It seems that every element of Vietnamese life was celebrated and preserved in his work.
Helping Diego bring his unique fashion to life was a Vietnamese staff who had been with him from the beginning—75% of them people with disabilities, mostly deaf or mute. Diego considered them family and provided stable employment. He said it was an honor to work with people with disabilities, believing that everyone has potential and that he was there to spread love.
Vu Thi Thu Thuy, who worked at Chula from day one, described Diego as kind, friendly, and always encouraging others to stay positive and develop their abilities.
“He inspired us to try new things and express ourselves freely, and for that I’m very grateful. He was a great leader and a passionate motivator who pushed us to do our best,” she said.
Diego also took part in many community activities in Hanoi, including this year’s Phuc Tan art project along the Red River, for which he created mural paintings, and decorating Long Bien Market with lampshades made from bamboo chicken cages.
Diego passed away leaving several projects unfinished, including a brocade collection scheduled for release on December 30. Yet his legacy to Vietnamese fashion will endure. Diego Chula will be long remembered as a Spanish designer with an immense love for Vietnam.
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